
"The Peak", Newport Beach. Photo by Tigger Newling.
You had to be tough to surf at Newport Peak in the early 80's. It was one of the hottest breaks on the globe. It nurtured a world champion (Tom Carrol) and many other talented surfers and was fiercely competitive. There were just a couple of girls surfing then along the Northern Beaches, and I was one of them. Sitting on the beach, sunbaking, whilst my boyfriend was out surfing with his mates, was out of the question. The thought of being out in the ocean, looking for bumps on the horizon and eventually feeling the wave's energy under the board was motivation enough to get me out there. A salty crust on the skin, dishevelled and sunbleached hair, and a feeling of numbness in the upper body, a was my idea of bliss. The ocean cleansed my soul.
Although I don't surf as regularly today because of osteoarthritis, I hope to be surfing when I'm very old and grey (now I'm just old, a little grey and much heavier).